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            "49": {
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                "title": "Shopping list and tools needed",
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                        "*": " Howdy! This is the most important section (as all the preparation steps are), please have a look at the list of parts you will need, order the correct ones with the correct options and if you are not sure just ask in the forums. Once ordered, you may wish to have a look at the tools that are required and make sure you have them at your disposal. \n\n= Parts and Tools needed = \n[[File:01_annotated.jpg|thumb|right|Annotated Parts List]]\n\nClick on the image to the right to see a larger version with the parts labelled\n\n# IMX291 sensor board\n# Lens with the lens holder - 4mm, 6mm are M16 mount as pictured, while other lenses might be CS which have a different holder\n# 2x M2 screws, 6mm long - for mounting lens holder \n# Camera housing\n# Small cable gland  (supplied with the housing)\n# Large cable gland  (supplied with the housing)\n# Camera Power over Ethernet (PoE) cable (sometimes called a network cable by the sellers)\n# Camera board holder  (supplied with the housing)\n# Holder metal plate  (supplied with the housing)\n# 4x M2 screws, 12 mm long  - for mounting camera module to bracket\n# 1x M3-.50 screw, 6mm long - for mounting camera module L-bracket to base plate\n# Metal plate screws (supplied with the housing)\n# Transparent weatherproof silicone \n# Housing mounting bracket  (supplied with the housing)\n# Waterproof ethernet cable protector\n# PoE injector to supply 48v to the camera (not shown)\n# Raspberry Pi 4 Model B 2GB (or at least a 3B+ with 2GB) with official power supply (not shown)\n# Raspberry Pi housing (not shown)\n# 128 GB or greater microSD card (not shown)\n# Self-amalgamating tape (not shown)\n\n= Purchasing Parts =\nFor consistency across the network and to make collaborative support possible, it is recommended that the camera and lenses listed below are used in preference to random handy bits that are cobbled together. The selected components are proven and known to work well. Other components can be sourced from any convenient seller. \n\nMany components such as the Pi and microSD cards are are readily available in most locations. For other items such as lens, camera and housing, AliExpress - the Chinese equivalent of eBay - is the preferred online source as it serves most of the globe and has been reliably suppling parts to date.\n\nNB: Links are given to current sellers, but stock levels vary and if the link is dead or the seller is out of stock, you should be able to find an equivalent from another seller on AliExpress.\n\n== Sensor ==\nThe bare IP security camera featuring a Sony IMX291 has been selected for the RMS system. This is available from many sellers on AliExpress. Out of the options offered, choose \"With 48V POE cable\" and \"No lens\":\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002315913099.html IVG-HP203Y-AE]\nAlways buy a lens separately from the list in the following section.\n\n== Lens ==\nMost cameras available on Aliexpress come with a choice of lenses. The preferred lens is a 4mm f/0.95 M16 lens providing ~88x45\u00b0 field of view, which can also be bought separately for example via this link.\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32876034491.html 4mm f/0.95 M16]\nAlternative lenses (4mm and 6 mm) are available here:\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003145991079.html 4mm OR 6mm f/0.95 M16]\n\nIf you live in an area with heavy light pollution, other options are available. We wholeheartedly recommend only using lenses from the following list, as others might not be as sensitive or might have large distortion. See [[Lens Options|this page]] for more lens options.\n\n== Housing ==\nA security camera housing is used, providing weather-tight protection without distortion introduced by plastic domes. From the options offered, select \"Plate and Bracket\" to get a plate for mounting a 38x38mm bare IP camera module, and an L-shaped mounting bracket. \n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32355130687.html IP66 CCTV Camera Housing with Plate and Bracket] This will also provide a pair of cable glands and some essential screws.\n\n== Power Over Ethernet Injector, PoE Switch (Optional) and PoE replacement camera side cables (Optional, but recommended) ==\nThis connects by network cables to both the Raspberry Pi and the camera sensor, and injects 48V DC onto the network cable to the camera to supply it with power. Pick a suitable plug style for your location from the options offered. An example unit is:\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002704227705.html PoE Injector 48V 0.5A]\n\nNote that over short lengths of up to about 5m you can also use plain PoE connectors. These simply feed 12V from a power supply into the ethernet and extract it at the other end. Over short distances this will supply the camera with adequate power without the need for 48V injectors.\n\nFinally, if you are operating several cameras, you can use a PoE switch instead of a PoE injector and connect all the cameras to your network - '''please source locally'''.\n* [https://www.tendacn.com/product/tef1110p-8-63w.html TEF1110P-8-63W 10-Port 10/100M Desktop Switch with 8-Port PoE]\n\nIt is a good idea to keep a replacement PoE camera side cable or two:\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001297174234.html Poe cable - Select RJ45 or RJ45DC]\nAlternative cable - please note that in the picture just 2 connectors are visible, but you will receive all the connectors needed for IMX291 board (1 pcs 2pin port (2.0mm), 1 pcs 4pin port (1.25mm), 1 pcs 6pin port (1.25mm), 1 pcs 8pin port (1.25mm)):\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002598310068.html Poe Cable]\n\n== Cooled Housing for Raspberry Pi ==\nThis is one of the rare cases that fulfills our needs. It has a fan which is relatively quiet, it\u2019s sturdy, and it can fit the RTC with the addition of riser pins. '''Please buy this case''', we have tried many others, but they are not as good. From the options offered, make sure you select one that says \"for Pi 4\" if you are using a Raspberry Pi 4, or \"for Pi 3B Plus\" if you are using a Raspbery Pi 3B+. Additionally there is a case variation that is fully enclosed and has no fans; do not select this option.\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32959825297.html Raspberry Pi Aluminium Enclosure with fans]\n\n== Real Time Clock for Raspberry Pi ==\n[[File:rtc.jpg|thumb|RTC installation|200px]]\n\nVery precise timing is essential to processing the meteor data, so unless you are confident in your internet connection an RTC module ensures the Raspberry Pi always has the precise time, even when power or internet is unreliable. AliExpress sells a pack of 10 but they are inexpensive - maybe share the extras among other camera constructors in your area. The AliExpress store lists two RTC modules, one labelled \"DS3231 module\" and the other \"mini DS3231 module.\" Select the \"mini DS3231 module\" option; it is designed for the Raspberry Pi. It has 5 pins and includes a battery.\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32770348851.html DS3231 RTC]\n\nOnce you plug it into the Pi (see image on the right) and make sure the current time is correct on the Pi, open the terminal and run:\n\n<pre>\nsudo hwclock -w\n</pre>\n\nThis will set the current computer time to the RTC. Every time the Pi boots up, it will read the correct time from the RTC.\n\n== Pin Headers ==\nRequired to raise the height of the Raspberry GPIO bins to allow the RTC to sit proud of the Raspberry Pi case. You only need 1 but the pack of 20 is available for only a dollar or so. \n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32549850046.html Tall header pins]\n\n== Network cabling ==\nYou will need two lengths of network cabling, one (probably quite short) between the Raspberry Pi and the PoE injector and the other between the PoE injector and the camera. You can purchase suitable lengths locally or on AliExpress. Some people have found the following thin flat network cable to be useful for sneaking the wire through a window or door to avoid drilling holes in walls or eaves, although it will require some extra attention to seal the cable at the camera's PoE connector:\n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002311509668.html Cat6 Flat Ethernet Cable]\n\n== Waterproof Cable Connector ==\nOne end of the network cable will be outside, connected into the PoE cable from the camera. This is not only carrying data but 48V DC power and needs to be kept sealed. This waterproof connector is fitted over the end of the network cable connector then after the network cable is plugged into the camera's PoE cable, the connector is locked into the end of the PoE cable. For extra weatherproofing, wrap in self-amalgamating tape. \n* [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32834472563.html RJ45 Waterproof Connector Cap]\n\n== 128GB Micro SD Card or 256GB USB flash disk ==\n\nYou may choose between an SD card and a USB flash disk, no need to have both.\n\nYou need at least a 64GB card but a 128GB is recommended as 20+ GB of data is collected every night. Make sure it is a fast card eg Class 10 UHS-1 or better. A card can either be purchased locally or [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32676225311.html from AliExpress]. Be warned that there is an [https://photographylife.com/fake-memory-cards ongoing problem with the production and sale of fraudulent memory cards misreporting the available storage] and even supplies from a reputable outlet can be affected - test the card you purchase. The AliExpress link has been used successfully to obtain suitable micro SD cards. If you live in North America, buy your SD cards at Costco.\n\nIf you want to go for a USB flash disk, this one is verified to work well [https://www.kingston.com/en/usb-flash-drives/datatraveler-kyson-high-performance-usb-flash-drive Kingston DataTraveler Kyson 256 GB]. We recommend you source it locally, for the reference the link to get it on [https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-DataTraveler-Kyson-256GB-DTKN/dp/B08KHZY581 amazon.com]\n\n== Raspberry Pi 4 ==\nThese are likely to be available to be purchased locally or from a domestic online source. You need at least a 2GB RAM model. The Raspberry Pi Model 4B is now the minimum spec. Previously, a Raspberry Pi Model 3B+ was considered the minimum but these do not have the performance or memory to handle busy meteor showers. Purchase the official 5.1V 3A 15.3W power supply to go with it - most problems with Raspberry Pi units are due to inadequate power supplies being used instead of purchasing the official power pack. Note: to connect a RPi 4B to a monitor you will also need a micro-HDMI cable, so that might be necessary to add to the shopping cart also.\n\n== Additional items and tools ==\n* Source suitable M2 and M3 screws. It might be possible to find these locally but in some places they are just odd enough to be quite hard to find. You could order some hardware from the [https://www.aliexpress.com/store/4714020?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000007.1.5fc666d9tN1f8i ScrewHome Store] on AliExpress. Each [https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32981714992.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.10.be65539dLjPgfh packet of 50 M2x6mm, M2x12mm, and M3x6mm] machine screws will cost only a few dollars.\n* A tube of silicone sealant is used to seal the glass window for the housing and the front screws in the housing.\n* Self-amalgamating tape can be used to wrap and seal the cable connector(s) to ensure they remain weathertight in all conditions.\n* Tools such as small wire cutters or a sharp knife, various sized screwdrivers, a drill and screws to mount the camera bracket will be required.\n* RJ45 crimper tool to finish the ethernet cable will be needed.\n\nSome cameras come with a slightly different cable with a separate 12V socket for power input as shown [https://globalmeteornetwork.org/wiki/images/d/dc/Alternatecable.jpg here]. \nIf the power input port has a small cap, then you can just cover it and use the PoE on the ethernet port. If it's open, then you will need a pair of PoE adapters (seen in that picture in the background).\n\nTo test and focus the camera you will need VLC. This software is preinstalled on the Pi but is also available for Mac, Windows or Linux from [https://www.videolan.org/vlc/ here].\n\n You are now done with this section or you are waiting for the parts. Anyway, you may proceed to have a look at the build of the camera itself or to start actually building it. Have fun! [https://globalmeteornetwork.org/wiki/index.php?title=Build_%26_Install_%26_Setup_your_camera_-_The_complete_how-to Back to the signpost page.]"
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            "41": {
                "pageid": 41,
                "ns": 0,
                "title": "SkyFit2",
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                        "*": "SkyFit2 is a tool used to make astrometric plates and photometric calibrations. An astrometric plate is used to convert measurements on the image to coordinates in the sky (e.g. right ascension and declination). Photometric calibration converts the image pixel intensity to magnitude.\n\nWe aim to make SkyFit as user-friendly and universal as possible. It aims to support all optical meteor data formats in existence (videos and still images), as well as calibrating dashcams.\n\nA full video tutorial is available on [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ao3J9Jf0iLQ YouTube].\n\n\n=== Example data ===\n\nHere is some data if you don't have any of your own yet: [https://www.dropbox.com/s/gy023qg7bsobrjp/RU_fireball_20190910.zip?dl=0 data link]\nThis is data from one fireball observed over the Caucasus Mountains in 2019. You should have everything here for a trajectory solution, and one is already provided in the software. Note that the .config files might be hidden - files beginning with a dot are hidden by default in Linux.\n\n= SkyFit2 Anatomy =\n\nThis section describes the various physical features of the SkyFit2 GUI.\n\n== SkyFit Mode ==\n\n=== Image Display & Levels ===\n\n[[File:WikiImgDisplay.png]]\n\n=== Fit Parameters Tab ===\n\n[[File:WikiFitParams.png]]\n\n=== Settings Tab ===\n\n[[File:WikiSettingsTab.png]]\n\n== ManualReduction Mode ==\n\n=== Image Display & Levels ===\n\n[[File:WikiImgDisplay2.png]]\n\n=== Settings Tab ===\n\n[[File:WikiSettingsTab2.png]]\n\n\n= Create or Upgrade a Plate with SkyFit2 =\n\nThis page seeks to walkthrough how to create a new plate or upgrade an old plate using RMS SkyFit2 GUI.\n\n== Getting Started ==\n\nTo run SkyFit2, first install the RMS git repository and environment. Then run the command\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 INPUT_PATH [-c/--config CONFIG_PATH][-t/--timebeg TIME][-f/--fps FPS][-g/--gamma GAMMA]\n\nThis opens the Sky``Fit2 GUI with whatever data is in the directory specified by \"INPUT_PATH\". Alternatively, can also be a path to a video file or a state file. Make sure to customize the config file to the proper specifications before running this program. The most common options are detailed below:\n\n* Config: Path to the directory containing the appropriate .config file. Default to the DETECTION_PATH.\n* Timebeg: Beginning time of the detection in YYYYMMDD_hhmmss.uuuuuu format.\n* Fps: Frames per second when images are used. This option overrides the framerate given in from the config file.\n* Gamma: Camera gamma value (typically 0.45 or 1.0). This option overrides the framerate read in from the config file\n\nUpon opening, a request for a plate (platepar .cal file) will occur. If you wish to update a plate, select this here. If you wish to make a new plate, simply close this window.\n\n=== Using RMS data ===\n\nCollect the desired data in a directory (e.g. /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY). The directory should contain an FF and an FR file if you're reducing a fireball. Make sure to also copy the required .config file and the platepar_cmn2010.cal if present. \n\nThen run:\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY --config . --fr\n\nThis will load the given data files.\n\n\n=== Using FRIPON data ===\n\nFRIPON data are usually given as a bunch of individual frames in a FITS format. It is very important that all files have a .fit extension (not .fits). SkyFit2 will automatically read the header and download the station coordinates, so you don't have to specify a config file. If the data are in /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY, simply run:\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY\n\n\n=== Using GFO/DFN data ===\n\nDFN data are given as .NEF files in the raw Nikon format. To load a GFO image in SkyFit, you will need a dfnstation.cfg file which is usually present on the system. Copy both a .NEF image and the dfnstation.cfg in a standalone directory called e.g.  /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY.\n\nThen run:\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY --config .\n\nSkyFit will ask you to choose the .NEF file.\n\n\nProperly calibrating and reducing GFO data can be a bit tricky. The recommended procedure is the following:\n\n* Take a calibration image (the one with the nominally longer exposure) and put it in a separate \"calib\" directory. Make sure that lots of stars are visible and that there are at least a few very close to the horizon.\n* Fit a radial plate (starting with radial3-odd, then fit a radial5-odd, finishing with a radial7-odd), with the asymmetry correction and equal aspect turned on. Set the extinction scale to 0.6 and turn off a fixed vignetting coefficient option. When happy with the fit, hit CTRL + S to save and close SkyFit.\n* Prepare the fireball data in another directory and copy the platepar file from the calib directory. The data images have a shorter exposure, so fewer stars are visible. In the previous step, you fit the pointing and the distortion coefficients - because the lens is the same the distortion coefficients remain the same, but the pointing can drift over time. You need to re-calibrate on 10-20 stars but select the \"Only fit pointing option\".\n* Switch to the ManualReduction mode and start picking. Because the timing is encoded using a de Brujin sequence, the fireball consists of dots and gaps (1s and 0s). Start with an obvious dot, clicking it with your mouse. A red cross will appear. Advance to the next point (\"frame\") by pressing a right arrow key on your keyboard (note that the frame counter will increase). If the next point is a gap, select it with ALT + CLICK (or NUM0 + CLICK) - this will show up as a yellow cross. Keep going until you select all, and you can go back with a left arrow key in case you missed any. It is very important that the order of selected points is correct. Once you've selected about 10-20 points, switch to the Debrujin tab and click \"Check sequence\". This will try to find a unique solution for the time, but you might be offered with several options. You can choose one if you know the time, or close it and pick a few more points and try again.\n* If you want to do photometry, the background needs to be subtracted before pixel colouring is possible. Use a .NEF image that was taken just before or after the fireball as a dark frame by hitting CTRL + D and selecting the file.\n\n\n=== Using arbitrary video or image data ===\n\nThis section applies if:\na) You are using a video from e.g. a security camera in either a .avi, .mp4, or in a .mov format.\nb) Or you are using a sequence of images (make sure their names are sorted alphabetically, e.g. frame001.png, frame002.png, etc.). Using just one image works too, then SkyFit2 will run in a special \"single-image mode\".\n\nYou will need to make a custom configuration file and know the absolute time of the first frame.\n\nFirst, copy the .config file from the RMS source directory to the directory with the video and rename it with the name of the station (we'll use \"London\" as the station name), e.g. london.config. Then open this file and change the following entries:\n\n stationID: London\n latitude:  51.500761 ; WGS84 +N  (degrees) - Use at least 5 decimal places and measure in Google Earth as accurately as possible\n longitude:  -0.124585 ; WGS84 +E (degrees)\n elevation: 20 ; mean sea level EGM96 geoidal datum, not WGS84 ellipsoidal (meters)\n \n ...\n \n width: 1280 ; Set the video resolution\n height: 720\n fps: 25.0 ; frames per second\n \n ...\n \n ; Approx. horizontal Field-of-view in degrees\n fov_w: 87\n ; Approx. vertical Field-of-view in degrees\n fov_h: 45\n \n ; Deinterlacing -2 = global shutter, -1 = rolling shutter, 0 = even first, 1 = odd first\n deinterlace_order: -1 \n \n ...\n \n star_catalog_file: BSC5 ; This sets a star catalog with bright stars\n \n ...\n \n catalog_mag_limit: 4.0 ; Security cameras usually can't see stars fainter than this, but you can always adjust this later\n\n\nThen given the absolute UTC time of the first frame in the YYYYMMDD_hhmmss.uuuuuu format (e.g. 20230214_021629.0) and the path to the video file (e.g. /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY/video.mp4), run:\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY/video.mp4 --config . --timebeg 20230214_021629.0\n\n\nIf you are using a sequence of images, then give it the path to the directory which contains the images:\n\n python -m Utils.SkyFit2 /PATH/TO/DATA/DIRECTORY/ --config . --timebeg 20230214_021629.0\n\nIf you are using just one image, use the command above and SkyFit will ask which image to open (you should have only one in the directory, together with the config file).\n\n== Creating a Plate ==\n\n*NOTE: When entering hotkey commands in SkyFit2, you must be in the main frame/viewer.\n\nAdjust the levels on the right as required or automatically set them by pressing ctrl+A. Once you are happy, begin to rotate the catalog stars into an approximately correct position using your keyboard. A/D control the azimuth, S/W control the altitude, Q/E control the position angle, and Up/Down controls the scale. Don't worry about getting them exactly, just get them close enough to the image for the program to associate the observed stars with the catalog stars when manually picking.\n\nTo enter star picking mode, press ctrl+R. This should bring up an annulus around your reticle, whose size you can control by holding ctrl and scrolling with the mouse wheel. To pick a star, click on the star and the program should automatically snap the point to the centroid. If you are unhappy with its choice, you can force the centroid position by holding ctrl and clicking. The position will appear as an orange cross. Your pick of star will automatically associate with the nearest catalog star (which will be filled with a blue X). If you wish to choose a different catalog star, simply click this again and notice as the blue X switches. To accept a pair, press Enter or Space.\n\nOnce you have a centroided a number of stars (minimum 5 to adjust pointing, 12 to adjust distortion), you can fit the plate by clicking \"Fit Parameters\">\"Fit\" on the sidebar or ctrl+Z. The green numbers that appear are the star magnitudes and the white numbers are the magnitude errors. The bars represent the fitting errors (magnitude and direction). This will print a residual table to the console, as well as the average error and FOV.\n\nUnder the \"Fit Parameters\" tab, there are several options to adjust to improve your astrometry. The refraction correction should be checked for all camera. If the camera is older and does not have square pixels, uncheck equal aspect. If you suspect that the lens is not completely flat with the sensor (nearly always), check the asymmetry correction. The older distortion models are the poly3+radial models. It is preferable to use the radial-odd models as they do not require stars in all parts of the field to accurately model the distortion. To see which you should use, begin with the lowest order model and check the astrometry residuals by clicking \"Fit Parameters\">\"Astrometry\" or by pressing the L key. If there is structure to the residuals, then increase the order until the structure disappears.\n\nFixed vignetting should only be enabled for cameras with well-measured vignetting. This is preferable to the modeled vignetting parameter, but unless it has been measured in the lab or under controlled conditions it will worsen the photometry fit. Extinction values also typically vary between 0.6 and 1.0 and should be measured on a per-camera basis. Both of these effects increase with distance from the center of the lens, as can be seen by clicking \"Fit Parameters\">\"Photometry\" or by pressing the P key. Adjust the extinction until it follows the downward curved line.\n\nAfter creating a plate, it can be useful to remove high residual error stars. You can filter stars by adjusting \"Settings\">\"Filter Mag Err\". Manual add and remove stars until you obtain a fit you are satisfied with. You can check the RMSD to get an idea of how good the fit is."
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